Yamaha 6cmh Service Manual
Hi all, I just had my 2009 8hp 2stroke motor serviced at the yamaha dealer in chelsea,VIC. It was a full service with impeller, thermostat (which was really corroded), gear oil, 2x plugs, lube linkages and stamp the owners manual. All for the princely sum of $376.00 they were good to deal with but not too sure about the cost on such a small and basic motor. OEM part prices where a bit ritzy too. Impeller the size of a 50c piece- $53.37, thermostat - $52.43. When I get time later I will jump on to Ebay to compare price parts and see the mark up. One good thing is that you get to speak to the mech that worked in it and he seemed dedicated enough.
He said he spent a fair bit of time clearing all the corroded muck all around the thermostats housing. The main reason I took it the was that the motor stopped working at the Gipps Lakes. I got it working prior to drop off, but the mech suspects bad or contaminated fuel. And I didn't think of it till I got home that they did not replace the tiny fuel filter on the side of the motor - go figure. Not game to ask to have it done as a bought aspire one a couple of years ago and that part alone was about $25.
The mech did say for me to now drain my tank and then put in a cup of metho and swish it around. Once I drain the metho he said to let it dry out completely prior to refill - has anyone done this before? How do you clean your tanks? I have also always run the motor at 100:1 with oil as per the manual.
The mechanic said that I should really run it at 50:1. He said it would smoke a bit more but the engine would be better protected. He said the 100:1 was primarily to satisfy US requirements for lower pollution. Opinions here would be appreciated. Ray A20 Anyway, Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk. 100:1 is for Yamaha, whereas 50:1 is for most other motors that I'm familiar with.
So maybe the mechanic forgot that, or he was changing it because your motor is old and has had some issues lately. On Greg's advice I've put in in-line with my fuel line one of these filters as cheap additional insurance. For your usual fuel filter (in the engine housing) perhaps or might do. Metho will absorb water from condensation, so it could be a good idea to clean out the tank (for muck) and then drain it using metho (for water). Diesel tanks are sometimes cleaned by steam as they accumulate the same dust, rust and moisture, so again, he's giving you some preventative advice. On the issue of cost, you've only mentioned the final price, not the break up in detail. My last services were $80 and $100 but that was for the 6 months and 1-year from new scheduled service without much parts.
Labour would be $60/hr minimum, but usually closer to $80/hr as charged, and the cost of parts. Given your parts of about $150, that leaves about 3 hours labour. You could also consider that that was the cost of saving the motor, rather than replacing a defunct motor. That is accounting-speak for 'got you out of that jamb'. A bit more maintenance on your part, and the knowledge and confidence that is engendered by DIY, will only help to keep the motor in good working condition. Also, consider as cheap insurance a $50/p.a. Membership of the volunteer Coast Guard which funds their services but also allows you up to 3 call-outs/ tows per year, (within 5 miles of base- P'ville, Lks Ent, Marlo, Prt Alber, Prt Welspool and reciprocal rights with other CG bases) PS.
Aust Volunteer Coast Guard Association Inc - Gippsland, enquiries 5156 0106. Got my Yamaha 6CMH (6HP 2-stroke) serviced at Wynnum Marine, QLD, in November 2015 Oil = $8:50 Gasket x 2 = $5:18 Impeller x 1 = $48:52 Split pin X 1 = $0:75 Env levy = $7:50 Labour x 1.75 hrs = $183.75 TOTAL = $254:20 Add in your thermostat, and you're within $70 or so of my service.
I know its not my money, but I wouldn't quibble over the difference, especially if it included good service and a quality clean-up. As an aside, I've still got a problem with my gear-shift (the reversing lock got stuck and would not allow the gear to shift to forward).
Until I get it sorted, the Admiral will be most reluctant to go sailing with me. In this case, the cost of reliable servicing, or the differential between thorough and bare-bones is well worth it.
Martin, I'm not familiar with the yamaha but when I had issues with gearchanges on my suzi it eventually turned out there was a washer floating around in the cowling. It would intermittently bounce up into the mechanism and jam it! The dealer had spent months telling me there was nothing wrong and it was ' opperator error', ( despite the problem starting after they did the service) - so when I found that washer my boat moved to a different mast up storage facility. Jaraau - be glad you paid for your local dealer! Pdandy - intermittent faults are the bane of any mechanic or technicians life. As a technician I was able to solve lots of intermttent faults that others were unable to solve, I was lucky enough for the fault to maifest itself for me. I would be those customers technician of choice for ever.
On the downside I know there were lots of intermittent faults that I did not solve and never heard. No doubt if you told the person involved what the problem really was you would have received a gruff response and no apology.
I believe the business is on the market and IMO Paynesville will be the poorer if he goes. As for servicing costs for the Yamaha it is a niche market and if the waterways were well cleaned with the thermostat job I think the cost was reasonable. In theory i like the idea of the annual service and a motor that starts everytime.
But the reality over the years has been little problems such as blocked jets etc crop up so i need to learn how to fix them or are reliant on service people. So I have become more confident with the diy option. Also many of the problems were caused by the mechanics anyway. So i am now working toward the annual diy thorough service option.
I am a big believer in understanding and being able to fix your own things on yachts trailers etc. Even though i am a lousy mechanic. In theory i like the idea of the annual service and a motor that starts everytime. But the reality over the years has been little problems such as blocked jets etc crop up so i need to learn how to fix them or are reliant on service people. So I have become more confident with the diy option.
Also many of the problems were caused by the mechanics anyway. So i am now working toward the annual diy thorough service option. I am a big believer in understanding and being able to fix your own things on yachts trailers etc. Even though i am a lousy mechanic. +1 Now I just have to get that dratted oil drain undone.
Working on it. Everything else serviced but oil. Thanks for all the feedback. I took it to a Yamaha dealer to get the best service and i was expecting a $300 bill, but when it was nearly 400 it took me a back - maybe I'm a bit out of touch. Anyway here is the itemized bill as requested - attached.
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Now - for the NOT HAPPY JAN - part. I took the yacht out today and launched from Martha Cove - had a great day sailing - even tide up on the Dromana pier for a while until the wind changed and was trying to push the boat into the pier. Anyway motor worked flawlessly as it always had. When I got home i put the ear muffs on to flush the engine as normal and as i did the bottom of the leg where it bolts on to the motor was squirting out water from the seam as i was flushing the engine;-( I hope this is not an area that mixes with the gear oil - You think they might have checked that - I know they run it in a tank and not with muffs - but this is bad after such a bill that I have to check it!!
- Now I have to call the dealer back and drag my boat from Mt Waverly to Chelsea again - Not Happy!! - Pretty basic stuff that they should have got right the first time. Please advise if they should just add a new gasket or flush and change the gear oil in the leg - What a hassle. Picture attached where to is squirting out water - would appreciate feed back if you think this is mixing with oil and sea water would have got in today as we were out for many hours.
See attached. Attachments: Presentation1.jpg 113.67 KiB Viewed 2869 times IMG8042 (Medium).JPG 71.88 KiB Viewed 2869 times. Even the local Mercury dealer was telling me that Yamaha parts are VERY expensive, and thats compared to Mercury so that in its self says plenty. I had my 75Hp Merc serviced by a onsite bloke, he was awesome and must of spent 5 or 6 hours on the motor, replaced a couple of extra seals as preventive (he asked me first if I wanted them replaced) and he even changed the choke setup which I wasnt happy with, it was very difficult to push the key up due to the angle of the controller, so I got a water proof push button switch mounted on the pedestal and wired into the loom.
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Total cost $400, and its running as sweet as a bell (touch wood). Update: Dealer Response - Hi Ray Please see attached parts schematic, there is not a gasket between the two surfaces, when we have serviced the motor we cleaned out a lot of salt etc from water galleries, you can tell now by how much extra water pressure from the tell tale, the water that you can see is return water that has gone through the pump up through the motor and is returning back to sea water when the motor is run in water. It is happening now because of the extra pressure that we have been able to create, there is nothing to be concerned about, if you wanted you could bring it in and we could show you. I called him to follow up and he assures me that the mechanics said it is nothing to worry about. I offered to loosen the leg bolts and put some gasket goo around the seam, but he said don't bother. I called another dealer who basically said a similar thing, as it is metal to metal with out any gasket some corrosion over time can cause the squirting affect between the seam. It may be OK - but not a good look on a motor that was perfect.
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I wonder what Yamaha HO would think of this? Attachments: Yama Image (Small).jpg 60.96 KiB Viewed 2772 times. My new to me Fazda BT-Ranger was due for its 30,000km service recently. Having some time on my hands, I popped into the local Ford dealer and asked them what the service was worth (a fixed price for the same spec manual 2wd 3.2 Ranger; they're happy to work on one with Mazda badges).
The service basically amounts to replace oil and filter (10 litres of pricey synthetic stuff, I paid $90 for oil and filter at a different Ford dealer and figured I had done all right), drain the diesel fuel filter of any water present, and inspect a bunch of straightforward stuff like tyre tread wear, brake disks, etc. When I asked them what it involved apart from oil and filter, they claimed they would replace the fuel filter too, as if that justified the cost. It is after all a profit centre and a way to make money on new cars that are sold at competitive prices for very little margin.
Oh well, that makes it OK then because the rich dealer principles need more richness! - Being sarcastic of course. Actually there is a fantastic show I podcast from the US about car repairs (I know I need to get a life), but I just love listening to the southern accents. Graham with your tech knowledge you should love this show and site. They are super knowledgeable guys and are very honest, even thought they are skewed to religious servicing and using the premium OEM parts, but on the most justify what they say. The more I listen the more frightened i am getting as they talk about all the issues they see and the modern car with so many computers and electronic non-fixable systems, are just 7 yr time bombs waiting to go to the scrap heaps. In most cases any major repair is more than the car will be worth and even if it isn't, all you need is a couple of lesser repairs and you have paid more than the car is worth!
One guy called in and said he had a 4yr old car and wanted to get an updated car that he could have for 10yrs and the guys on the show told him to buy anything that is in great condition built prior to 2007!! Rather than a new car. So dealer repairs and service are going to make the original cost of the car look way out of wack with what it costs to keep it going.
I guess that same will apply to outboards, especially the big ones.