Please note that above pictures have fuel bowel already removed. As stated before, I would suggest following the steps outlined below without removing the bowel first STEP 8 – Now we need to detach the carburetor from the engine by removing two long carb hold-down bolts. Just a fair warning that the Torx heads on these bolts are made from soft brass.

1. Wheel Horse Generator Manual

Wheel Horse Generator Manual

Since soft brass is fairly easy to strip or crush, you want to use an external Torx to remove these bolts. If you do not have it, you can buy the E5 external Torx bit in this. (read my review ).

Whatever you do, be careful as these bolts are not available! Fig.2.4 STEP 10 – Using a flat (slot) head screwdriver, remove two screws and washers that are holding down the carb fuel bowel (fig.3.1). Be careful as it will hold about 2 oz of gasoline. Also, there will be a loose spring inside (fig.3.3).

This is what keeps the internal plastic components (float, gasket-float bowel) in place. Make sure to keep it in a safe place. Note how in fig.3.2, you see reddish deposit on the bottom with some flakes.

These are deposits from a stale gasoline. Use a small amount of carb cleaner to clean them as much as possible.

Fig.3.3 fig.3.4 STEP 11 – Once a float is detached, there will be a small gray “needle valve pin” (fig.3.5, fig.3.6 and fig.3.7). This needle pin either opens or shuts the fuel valve so it is critical that tip needs to be free of any debris. Be careful as the tip is made of rubber and it will pop off easily (and very easy to lose!). Using some fresh gasoline mixed with carb cleaner (2:1 ratio), clean off all gunk (as stated previously I do not like using straight solvent on plastic pieces as it may chemically degrade plastic components) so what I did was to dip some cotton swabs in the mixture clean off the gunk. Fig.3.8 is the end result of that cleaning which took about 20 minutes.

Fig.3.5 fig.3.6 fig.3.7 fig.3.8 STEP 12 – The remaining round plastic piece (gasket-float bowel) channels the gasoline flow. Note how the inlet and outlet ports are clogged with junk (fig.4.1 and fig 4.2). STEP 13 – The inlet also has a small (ceramic) piece with an O-ring that gets open/shut by a needle valve (fig.4.2 and fig.4.3).

Gently pop it out by using a Q-tip with firm force. DO NOT use an awl or any sharp, pointed objects which can enlarge the hole or worse, crack it.

STEP 14 – Using a thin wire, clean off as much gunk as you can, not just the hole but all surrounding area (fig.4.4) If there is gunk left, needle valve cannot seat properly which will flood the engine (which is what happened after my first clean attempt). Fig.4.1 fig.4.3 fig.4.3 fig.4.4 STEP 15 – This is what it looks like after thorough cleaning (fig.5.1 and fig.5.2). STEP 16 – To pop the ceramic flow control piece back in, I used a small piece of leftover 12 AWG electrical wire. You can also use a Q-tip, but make sure you hear the “click” to ensure that the O-ring has been seated properly. STEP 17 – On to cleaning the carburetor itself.

VERY Carefully remove the O-ring seal and put it aside (Fig.5.3; BTW, if you are attempting to clean your carb that is still attached to the engine, it will be fairly impossible for you to re-mount this O-ring so you may.not. want to remove the O-ring).

All but one of these machines work and you could start aerating tomorrow with some new tines and some gas. I bought all of these in a package deal from. Technical Manual GA 24 Aerator. All information contained in this manual is the latest. See your authorized RYAN dealer for nec-essary repairs. Ryan greensaire ii manual. Ryan Greensaire 24 Parts Manual.pdf Free Download Here Technical Manual. Greensaire II walk behind. View and Download Ryan GA 24 technical manual online. Ryan GA 24 Aerator. Push the turf plugs into a line that is out the way of the Greensaire wheel on the. We sell online 130 greensaire ii & wg-24 Parts. Get a offer or order direct. Phone: +31 344-645675.

STEP 18 – Using a carb cleaner, carefully and thoroughly clean all holes and grooves (I also used Q-tip to scrub the gunk off). Pay special attention to the inlet port where fuel enters the carburetor chamber. I ended up using Q-tips soaked with straight carb cleaner (no plastic inside the carburetor) to clean the inside, making sure to not leave behind any Q-tip remains. Portable generators produce lots of carbon monoxide that is colorless, tasteless and does not smell. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to keep it away from your house and make sure your carbon monoxide detectors are positioned near it Final Thoughts Overhauling a carburetor seems taunting at first but if you have some basic skills, it really isn’t that bad.

After replacing or cleaning the carburetor, make sure to test your generator every month (every 2 weeks during hurricane season) with electrical load for at least 30 minutes. Also, constantly rotate your stock of gasoline (use stale gas for your car). Hi Wayne- Thanks for the question. Before we get started, please note that Wheelhouse 5500 was made with two different types of carbs: Niki and Walbro.

In addition, you should also check the carburetor housing to make sure that your model number is 697978 (its stamped next to the breather hose). The item you describe sounds like the “Main Jet” which is installed in the “Tube-Fuel Transfer” plate (see fig 4.1 through 4.4). The part I am describing is shown in Fig 4.3. Examine it carefully (preferably under a magnifying glass to see if the O-ring is in good condition (no cuts, scores, etc.).

I am bit concerned that something was damaged for it to free float around (it has an o-ring that gets clicked into the housing). Also take a look at the Tube-Fuel transfer plate (part # 698780) to see that is is in good condition. If any parts of the tube-fuel transfer plate are cracked (especially the fuel inlet (center part) where the main jet resides, your options are either to purchase the or purchase the (. The replacement carb costs around $94 bucks. The latter option costs around $51 bucks+.

If you know for sure the tube-fuel transfer plate is damaged and if you can return the overhaul kit, I would definitely consider replacing the carburetor. If the main jet is in good condition, I would try clean it and re-install it (I describe how I did in steps 13 through 16). If it is in bad condition, you will need to replace it: There are two different parts, depending on the date code: which used after code date 08051300 or which is used before code date 08051400. Best bet is for you to contact Briggs & Stratton tech support to get the exact model number you need. Let me know how you make out. Kevin.

kevin says. Just seen ur message. Sorry fir the typo.

Refering to the pawnshop trading out the new spark plug for an old one Go figure as they even drained the 2gal of gas i had put in it. To ur question No they did not start it before i bought it because it needed new gas lines which i also replaced however they guarenteed that it worked and they had it running. Rolling eyes. As for their B.S you could say i got it for free as they traided it out and the other one they could start but we could So to make it short i got an onan and this one. akinola says. Great job and write up. I just went thru the same exact process with TWO of these Generac 5500’s.

If anyone out there has left one of these generators sit more than 2 months with gasoline in them, then you WILL NEED to take the carb apart as outlined in the great write up above. I know, because we were using ours on a construction site for 4 months (these are almost bulletproof BTW) and then put them up for right at 2 months. Pulled them out, and they simply wouldn’t start. New gas, new plugs, nothing. Pulled one of the bowls and it was full of red flakes and gunk. Knew right then and there the carbs had to be removed and cleaned. Took about and hour for both generators, but both fired up on the first pull after cleaning.

Thanks again!. kevin says.

@Ray- You are probably missing one of two springs. Just above the pullcord, there is a plastic shroud (has the on-off-switch). Unscrew about 4-6 screws and gently lift it out of the way. It is surprisingly bare inside.

Here is what you should have (this is a picture of my current storm responder 5500, which is virtually identical to wheelhouse 5550). I could not find these parts through normal channels (i.e. Amazon, briggs, etc.), bu was able to locate a vendor. Now, I have no relationship with this site so please check with them before making a purchase. Let us know how you make out after the repairs are done. Hi Oscar- Sorry to hear about your carburetor problem.

As far as I know that emulsion tube is NOT user replaceable. I ended up replacing my carburetor with a new one. You can read to see how I did it. The article references Briggs and Stratton 591378 replacement card. Though the product description page does not specifically says it replaces Nikki 698305, other users seems to have done the replacement without issues. I know the replacement carb is bit expensive (around 100 bucks), but the generator runs like new after this repair was done.

Please let me know if I can help you in anyway. Kevin. says.

Kevin, Excellent write-up and very insightful. It was very thoughtful of you to take the time to document everything. I purchased my WheelHouse 5500 back in 2004 and have used it on and off over the years without a problem. Recently, however, I had some issues that needed resolution.

BTW, my generator came with a Nikki carb that looks near identical to yours but my carb model number is 698305. I have a couple of things I’d like to add which might be helpful.

First, in your parts list you have the float bowl gasket incorrectly identified as part #698781. The correct part number for your Nikki and mine is #695426don’t ask me how I discovered this.

П˜‰ In reference to those who are having a problem with their carb flooding due to the bowl float mechanism not working there are only three things likely to cause this: (1) it’s most likely the float needle valve is worn, damaged or not seating correctly, (2) the float bowl gasket could be damaged or (3) the fuel transfer tube is damaged. The fuel transfer tube is the disc shaped white plastic part that the bowl float attaches to. The fuel transfer tube part number for our carbs is #696142 and it comes with a float bowl gasket. My carb was flooding because of a damaged fuel transfer tube. The tube does not break on its own and should normally not need replacement. I damaged mine because I had attempted to resolve a non-start issue I was having and had decided to drain the bowl by taking it off while the carb was still attached to the engine.

Bad idea and here is why. The fuel transfer tube must be installed up against the main body of the carb in a precise location.

That is, while it is physically possible to install the fuel transfer tube in probably 5 different positions all but one is correct as the ports on the main body of the carb must align with the port holes on the fuel transfer tube. Specifically, you’ll know you have it properly aligned when the fuel inlet tube from the fuel hose is directly aligned opposite the float need valve port. The reason why it is a bad idea to remove the fuel bowl while the carb is attached to the engine is that you cannot easily see how the port holes aligned if by back luck you rotated the fuel transfer tube to a location other than the correct one you are going to have a problem. Like I said, there are probably four other locations where it will install and feel like it is on correctly and there are a number of locations where the plastic fuel transfer tube will get damaged because it is getting crushed in any number of incorrect positions. This is what I did because I could not see how I was installing it incorrectly and I inadvertently cracked it. Again, always remove the carb before messing with the fuel bowl.

The other thing I wanted to point out is address the issue of the engine will not fire up even though the carb is working correctly. Recall that not only do you need fuel for the engine to fire up but you need spark too. If you aren’t getting spark and do not understand why do not forget that this generator has a low oil protection circuit that is supposed to suppress the spark (by grounding the ignition coil) to kill the engine if the circuit detects that a low oil condition will likely damage the engine if it is allowed to continue to run.

Most people who know about the low oil protection circuit will unplug the wire going to the low pressure (LOP) sensor and typically if the LOP sensor has failed then unplugging it will allow the engine to create spark. The part that a lot of people do not know about which is part of the low oil protection circuit is the low oil shutdown module (LOSM) which is typically a small silver colored cube but might be black plastic too. If the LOSM craps out then unplugging the LOP sensor alone will not fix your no spark problem. To bypass a LOSM failure you will need to unplug it from the ON/OFF switch.

If you look on the back of the ON/OFF switch you will not there are three terminals not two like you would expect. One of the terminals connects to the LOSM. Simply unplug the LOSM from the terminal and this will completely bypass the low oil protection circuit.

Note that failure of the LOSM is very common. Ask any equipment repair shop. The LOSM typically costs $50 to $70 and most folks figure they rather unplug the LOSM rather than buy a new one only for it to crap out again. Keep in mind that with the LOSM unplugged your generator will no longer be monitoring for a low oil condition therefore it will be especially important to check you oil level frequently.

Hope this tip helps someone out and you may want to integrate this info somewhere into your write-up. SyberTiger. Shelia Jackson says. @ Jeff- I do remember having a touch time myself, especially with screws facing down to the ground. If I recall, what I did was to tilt the generator 45 degrees by placing some stacked scrap pieces of 2x4s underneath, then found the largest flat head scredriver that will fit that also had a long shaft and thick handle. I then actually tried to tighten just a bit, then reversed them out.

As you are already aware, those screws heads can easily get mangled so make sure to apply a lot of downward pressure when trying to turn them. Good luck and let me know how you make out.