• Volvo Penta Aq140a Heat Exchanger Removal

Hi, i have the same setup in my boat, and i am looking to replace with diesels, no 'easy' way to do it, you have to either change the bell housing and use a volvo Diesel or get adaptors made to fit others. Direct replacement for the AQ140 is the 2.1 petrol out of a Volvo 244 car. Where abouts are you? I have just bought my boat as a winter project and my 2 AQ140's are going to be up for sale soon, as far as i know they are in good working order, if you are interested i could run them up to test them. Hi Liam Im looking at the citroen 1.9TD engine (90-100hp) fitted to Xantia's or the 2.1 Citroen engine (110-130hp) fitted to XM's, the other option is the ford transit 2.5DI turbo. There are kits available for the 1.9's but not too sure about the 2.1's.

For the 1.9's try here, they seem about the cheapest around, had a quote for a bare kit not including the charge air cooler at £950 ish per engine (but not including the engine (complete cars are only £100-200 over here)) they are about the same output as the AQ140. Drive should handle the power ok, i have seen these coupled to 280hp 5.7 litre V8's, gear ratio shouldn't be a problem either as the 1.9TD revs to about 4500, about the same as the AQ140. Its not going to be cheap to convert but will be better if you intend to use the boat alot as i do, the AQ140's will burn 8-10 GPH but the diesels about 5-6 (i have seen AQ140's going secondhand untested for £500) If i go the route of the 2.1TD (which i think i will) i will have adaptor rings made for the bell housing and drive plate and do the rest myself. Send me a PM and will send my email address, if i can answer any questions i would be glad to help.

Have just seen on Ebay someone selling 2 1.8 diesel ford escort engines (non turbo) with adaptors to fit the volvo outdrives fully marinised and a buy it now price of £550 each, wont have the power of the AQ140 but depends on what you want performance wise. Used to have a Draco 2500 Twin Cab with a pair of these things. Most of the later Volvo 240 bits fit, such as cam belts & tensioners, gaskets, oil filters.

I also modified the fresh water pump from the car into the AQ but this isn't so straight forward. I can send you these conversion details if you PM me a mail address.

Biggest problem was keeping the poxy things water tight! All the push fit joints used to leak like a seive.

Best thing I found was Loctite High temp copper RTV sealant, that on all the joints fixed a lot of the leaks. If the engines have been standing for a while unused beware of the cambelt tensioners which seize up solid. They're around £18 each from German & Swedish or Euro Car Parts.

Volvo Penta Aq140a Heat Exchanger Removal

. The Bayliner Owners Club is a gathering place for Bayliner Owners and prospective owners. No matter what size or model of Bayliner Boat that you have or are contemplating, we have members here who have that same model and would enjoy discussing it in a friendly, welcoming environment. PLEASE HELP SUPPORT OUR SITE The Bayliner Owners Club and its Decades of stored boating information is funded by you, the people that visit here.

This funding comes from member donations, or through your clicking on advertisements. Joining the BOC is easy and free. If you join, you can choose to either contribute and not see any advertising, or you can choose not to contribute, and you will see the same advertising you are seeing right now. Thanks for visiting the Bayliner Owners Club!! Please do us a favor by clicking on, then spending a minute visiting our advertisers. I'm new to the Forum and hopefully someone has an answer to my mystery. Last week my starboard engine was running very nicely at dock.

The next time down she would not fire up, there was spark and fuel and even a shot of ether did not even encourage a cough. I did notice the buzzer at the ignition was intermittent. With the ignition turned on it takes about 30 seconds for the buzzer to come on, then while turning over the engine the buzzer turns off. Is there a chance the ignition power is being interrupted? All wire connections appear tight and I did change the coil. Confused in Port Moody Cheers, Terry. I may have found the problem, while checking all electrical connections I found the little rubber boot/plug on the back side of the distributor had come out.

This may have allowed oil spray into the cap. ( Pertronix Electronic Ignition ) Once I dremel off the seized screw on the cap I'll get in to see the rotor condition and back side of the cap. The back of the distributor did have oil on it spraying off the belt. ( Spark was tested with screw driver in the plug boot grounding to valve cover while turning over ) I will report back. Check the seal of your distributor boot's.

'THughes' post=772258 wrote: I'm new to the Forum and hopefully someone has an answer to my mystery. Last week my starboard engine was running very nicely at dock.

The next time down she would not fire up, there was spark and fuel and even a shot of ether did not even encourage a cough. I did notice the buzzer at the ignition was intermittent. With the ignition turned on it takes about 30 seconds for the buzzer to come on, then while turning over the engine the buzzer turns off. Is there a chance the ignition power is being interrupted?

All wire connections appear tight and I did change the coil. Confused in Port Moody Cheers, Terry color#000088 wrote: Terry, I have high-lited some of your text above. See your OEM Volvo Penta service manual and go to the section regarding the timing belt and belt tensioner. This engine's camshaft and counter-shaft are cogged belt driven. This means that the belt and pulleys must remain phased or indexed correctly. Because the belt drives both the counter-shaft (fuel pump, oil pump, distributor) and it drives the camshaft which controls the valve train. Occasionally the belt can jump or skip several coggs on the 'drive' cogged pulley.

And occasionally at either of the 'driven' pulleys. If this is the case. You will still see ignition spark, still have fuel to the carburetor, and yet not have combustion. Read up on this, and check the phasing or indexing of the three cogged pulleys. If this was the problem. I would suggest that you replace the belt and be sure to replace the belt tensioner and adjust it correctly.

This is the same p/n used on the automotive engine. So you can save yourself some money./color. 'THughes' post=780853 wrote: Can anyone enlighten me on the 50 amp circuit breaker on the AQ140A engine. How to test it etc. First and formost.

Have you verified the timing belt indexing, and have you replaced the belt tensioner? As for the circuit breaker. Re-Set the red button. Push hard, some are stubborn!

Baring no other issues, you will have power at one terminal regardless. Check the opposite terminal for power.BTW, you would not see helm power nor starter motor action if the breaker was faulty.